HOW I SOLVED IT
The problem was twofold:
First, Windows had to be told that the DVD burner was capable of writing. This is a Properties setting in the Device Manager.
Once this was fixed, the return from GetTrackInfo changed from EN_FAILURE to EN_SCSI_CDB_FAILED.
And that return code came because it was indeed necessary to use DVD-R media instead of DVD-RW.
Once these were solved, the program still hanged on WriteTrackAtOnce, but that happened because somewhere I failed to adapt the DVDWriteTrackAtOnce example properly. The original example burned a DVD once the other two problems were resolved.
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